Working with Air-Dry Clay: What Every Crafter Should Know
Want to add dimensional details to your craft projects but aren't quite sure how to work with air-dry clay?
Air-dry clay is a versatile way to add raised flowers, scrollwork, leaves, seasonal shapes, borders, and other decorative details to jars, boxes, frames, ornaments, furniture, and mixed-media projects.
In this tutorial, Donna from Mason Creations etc. shares some of her favorite techniques for working with DAS air-dry clay. She covers everything from filling silicone molds and releasing delicate pieces to using cookie cutters, preventing warping, adding hanging holes, painting finished clay, and keeping unused clay fresh.
Watch the video below for the complete demonstration, then use these steps as a reference for your own air-dry clay projects.
Shop the Key Products
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Materials You Can Shop Here
You can shop the featured finishes and supplies below, then use the tutorial steps to bring the project together.
- Polyvine Heavy Duty Varnish
- Air Dry Clay
- Silicone Molds
- Pentart Acrylic Paint
- Adhesives
- Antiquing & Metallic Wax Rub
- Brushes & Tools
Also Needed
Glass Jar, Cup Cradle, Rolling Pin, Pumpkin Cookie Cutter.
Step 1: Warm and Condition the Clay
Before pressing air-dry clay into a mold, work it gently in your hands.
Warming and smoothing the clay makes it easier to press into small details and helps create a cleaner molded piece.
Donna uses DAS air-dry clay because it works well for detailed molds and has relatively little shrinkage or cracking as it dries.
Step 2: Press the Clay Firmly into the Mold
Push the clay firmly into all areas of the silicone mold.
Pay particular attention to small details, narrow sections, and deep recesses. If the clay pulls away from an area, simply press in a little more and work it back into the design.
Step 3: Scrape from the Center Outward
Use a palette knife to remove excess clay from the back of the mold.
Donna recommends scraping from the center outward toward the sides.
This small detail makes a difference. If you scrape from the edge toward the center, the palette knife can catch the clay and pull it out of the mold.
Continue until the back is level.
Step 4: Smooth the Clay with Water
Use a small amount of water to smooth the exposed back of the clay.
You do not need to saturate it. Just enough moisture to smooth rough areas and create an even surface is sufficient.
Step 5: Freeze the Mold
Place the filled silicone mold in the freezer for about 20 minutes.
Thicker clay pieces may need a little longer.
Freezing makes the clay firm enough to release without stretching, distorting, or breaking fine details.
This is especially helpful for intricate molds with thin leaves, petals, scrolls, or other delicate areas.
Step 6: Remove the Clay Immediately
Take the clay out of the mold as soon as you remove it from the freezer.
Do not leave it sitting in the mold to thaw.
While the clay is still cold and firm, clean up the edges and remove any small bits that do not belong. The piece is easier to handle at this stage because the details are less likely to become distorted.
Let it thaw for only a few minutes before attaching it.
Step 7: Glue Molded Clay While It Is Still Damp
Apply Aleene’s Tacky Glue to the back of the clay.
Donna uses a silicone makeup brush to spread the glue, which keeps regular artist brushes from getting ruined by adhesive.
Attach the clay while it is still damp rather than waiting for it to dry.
This is especially important on curved projects. Damp clay can bend and conform to jars, containers, frames, ornaments, and other shaped surfaces as it dries.
Step 8: Don't Panic if the Clay Breaks
Fresh clay can occasionally crack or break while you are handling it.
In Donna's demonstration, part of the molded clay breaks while she is spreading the glue. Because the clay is still damp, she simply fits the pieces back together when positioning them on the jar.
Small breaks are often much easier to repair than they appear.
Step 9: Press Down the Edges
Once the clay is positioned, gently press the edges against the project.
If glue seeps from underneath, remove it right away with a clean damp brush.
Check all around the embellishment to make sure the clay is making good contact with the surface.
Then let it dry overnight.
Step 10: Paint the Clay to Match the Project
Once the clay and glue are completely dry, paint the molded embellishment.
Donna paints the clay the same color as the mason jar. This creates an embossed effect and makes the clay look as though it is part of the original surface rather than an added decoration.
You can also paint molded pieces in contrasting colors if you want them to stand out.
Step 11: Seal Before Antiquing
After the paint dries, apply a protective coat of Polyvine Heavy Duty Varnish in Satin.
This creates the smooth sealed surface needed for the antiquing technique that follows.
Allow the varnish to dry before continuing.
Step 12: Add Antiquing for Dimension
Apply antiquing over the molded clay and work it into the cracks and recessed details.
Wipe the excess away from the raised surfaces.
The darker color remains in the low areas, making the pattern easier to see and giving an otherwise flat-looking painted embellishment more depth.
Step 13: Highlight the Raised Areas
After the antiquing is complete, add metallic wax to the highest areas of the clay.
Donna uses gold wax to lightly catch the raised details.
Let the wax dry for several hours, then buff it with a soft cloth for additional shine.
This combination of darker antiquing in the recesses and metallic highlights on the high points makes detailed molds especially noticeable.
Using Cookie Cutters with Air-Dry Clay
Silicone molds are only one way to work with air-dry clay.
Cookie cutters can turn rolled clay into ornaments, tags, seasonal decorations, appliqués, and other simple shapes.
Step 14: Roll the Clay on Plastic
Donna rolls her clay on a plastic bag.
She lightly sprays the work surface underneath so the plastic will not slide.
Plastic makes it easy to move the clay without stretching it. Instead of trying to pick the clay up from the work surface, you can peel the plastic away from the back.
Roll the clay to approximately 1/4 inch thick.
Step 15: Try the Plastic-Wrap Cookie Cutter Trick
For a softer, rounded edge, lay a piece of plastic wrap over the rolled clay before pressing down with the cookie cutter.
The plastic rounds the clay around the cutter rather than creating a completely sharp edge.
For a more traditional crisp edge, use the cookie cutter directly on the clay without plastic wrap.
Donna demonstrates both methods so you can see the difference.
Step 16: Smooth the Sides Before Drying
Take a little time to smooth the sides and edges while the clay is still damp.
Correcting rough areas now can eliminate the need to sand the finished clay later.
How to Keep Flat Air-Dry Clay from Warping
Flat clay pieces can curl as moisture leaves the clay.
Donna uses a simple drying routine to help keep them flat.
Step 17: Dry the Clay on Parchment Paper
Place the clay shapes on parchment paper.
Press them flat when you first set them down.
As they dry, check them periodically and press them flat again if necessary.
Step 18: Move and Flip the Pieces
Parchment paper draws moisture from the clay and may become damp.
Move the pieces to a dry portion of the paper as they dry, pressing them flat each time.
Flip the pieces several times during the drying process so moisture can escape from both sides.
Drying time will vary depending on your climate. Donna notes that her pieces usually dry in about 24–48 hours in the dry Las Vegas climate, while humid areas may require more time.
Step 19: Add Hanging Holes Before the Clay Dries
If you plan to turn a clay shape into an ornament or hanging decoration, make the hole while the clay is still wet.
Use a coffee stir stick for a small hole or a straw when you need a larger opening.
Then let the piece dry normally.
Step 20: Know When the Clay Is Ready
Donna uses the clay's appearance as a drying guide.
When the piece is white on both sides, it is ready for decorating.
At that point, you can paint it, decoupage it, add glitter, or use other embellishments.
How to Store Leftover Air-Dry Clay
Proper storage can make a big difference in how long your unused clay remains workable.
Keep the Original Packaging
Do not throw away the package the clay came in.
Place the leftover clay back inside its original wrapper.
Add a Little Moisture
Give the inside of the package a few light sprays of water.
The goal is to maintain moisture, not soak the clay.
Remove the Air
Fold the package over and press out as much air as possible.
Roll the package tightly and tape the edge closed.
Add a Second Layer of Protection
Place the wrapped clay inside a zip-top bag.
Donna cautions that using only a plain plastic bag or container may not keep the clay fresh as effectively as putting it back into the original packaging first.
Air-Dry Clay Is Easier Than It Looks
Air-dry clay can add an entirely new dimension to decoupage and mixed-media projects.
A few small techniques can make it much easier to work with: freeze detailed molds before unmolding, attach molded pieces while the clay is still damp, dry flat shapes carefully to prevent curling, and keep leftover clay tightly wrapped in its original packaging.
Once dry, the clay can become part of almost any decorative finish. Paint it to blend into the project, antique the recessed details, highlight the raised areas with metallic wax, or use the clay shape itself as a base for decoupage.
A special thank-you to Donna from Mason Creations etc. for putting together this useful guide to working with air-dry clay.
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