How to Make a Christmas Plate Look Like Aged Porcelain

Have you ever wondered how to give a brand-new craft project the delicate cracks and aged beauty of antique porcelain?

You don't have to wait decades to get that vintage look.

In this tutorial, Donna from Mason Creations etc. demonstrates how to use Pentart Fineline Crackle to create a beautiful aged finish over a decoupaged Christmas image.

She also adds ornate air-dry clay embellishments, warm antiquing, and soft metallic gold highlights to transform a simple wooden plate into an elegant Christmas keepsake.

The real lesson in this project is understanding the difference between ordinary crackle paint techniques and Fineline Crackle—and knowing which products you can safely use after the cracks form.

Watch the video below to see Donna demonstrate the complete process, then follow these steps to create your own vintage Christmas plate.

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Materials You Can Shop Here

You can shop the featured finishes and supplies below, then use the tutorial steps to bring the project together.

• Polyvine Heavy Duty Varnish
• Winsor & Newton - Solvent Varnish
• Christmas Rice Paper
• Wooden Plate
• Dixie Belle Chalk Mineral Paint
• Pentart Fineline Crackle
• Texture Paste
• Air Dry Clay
• Silicone Mold
• Adhesive
• Antiquing & Metallic Wax Rub
• Brushes & Tools

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Step 1: Prepare the Wooden Plate

Start with a plain wooden plate.

Donna uses a wooden plate for this project, but she explains that the same decorative technique can also be used on ceramic or clear glass plates with appropriate surface preparation.

She wants the natural wood to remain visible on the back, so only the front receives white paint.

Paint the front of the plate white to create a bright background for the rice paper.

This step is important because rice paper and napkins are somewhat translucent. A white background keeps the printed colors vibrant, while a dark background can make the image look dull or muddy.

Allow the paint to dry completely.

Step 2: Size the Christmas Rice Paper

Place your chosen Christmas rice paper over the plate and adjust the image until you like its position.

Mark where the paper needs to be trimmed.

Donna uses scissors instead of tearing the paper because none of the paper's outside edges will remain visible in the finished project.

Cut the rice paper to fit the plate.

Step 3: Decoupage the Image

Donna uses Polyvine Heavy Duty Varnish as her decoupage adhesive.

Position the paper on the plate, then gently lift one side.

Brush varnish onto the exposed surface and press the rice paper into place using your brush.

Lift the opposite side and repeat.

Once the entire image is attached, brush additional varnish over the paper to make sure it is completely adhered.

Donna likes using Polyvine because it spreads in a thin layer rather than creating the thicker buildup sometimes associated with glue-based decoupage mediums.

Step 4: Smooth the Rice Paper

Cut open a clean zip-top storage bag to create a flat piece of plastic.

Mist the plastic lightly with water and place it over the freshly decoupaged image.

Use a folded paper towel to gently rub across the plastic, pressing out any bubbles trapped beneath the rice paper.

The plastic protects the damp image while you smooth it.

Carefully remove the plastic and allow the decoupage to dry for approximately one hour.

Step 5: Seal the Image

Brush another coat of Polyvine Heavy Duty Varnish over the rice paper.

This protects the image before the painted and molded embellishments are added.

Donna makes an important point at this stage: all water-based techniques must be completed before applying Fineline Crackle.

Once the crackle finish is applied, moisture can damage it.

Add Dimensional Air-Dry Clay Embellishments

Step 6: Create the Molded Clay Details

Donna uses DAS air-dry clay to create the ornate embellishments.

She likes this clay because it is easy to work with and experiences relatively little shrinking or cracking.

Press the clay into decorative silicone molds to create the pieces you want to arrange around the plate.

Donna chooses ornate designs that will resemble an antique frame surrounding the Christmas image.

She also uses delicate beaded and decorative pieces to add detail around the rim.

Step 7: Attach the Clay While Damp

Use Aleene's Tacky Glue to attach the molded clay to the plate.

Donna recommends gluing the pieces while the clay is still damp because flexible clay can conform to the project as it dries.

Apply glue to the back of the molded piece and gently position it.

If glue squeezes out from underneath, remove it immediately with a clean, damp brush.

Use your fingers to carefully press down the edges so the clay makes good contact with the plate.

Step 8: Trim and Arrange the Embellishments

Continue arranging the clay pieces around the rim.

Donna trims one embellishment because she does not want it extending beyond the edge of the plate.

She smooths the freshly cut edge with her finger.

For a few small gaps in the decorative arrangement, she cuts tiny sections of clay to fill the spaces.

Take time to adjust the pieces until the design looks balanced.

Step 9: Handle Delicate Clay Pieces Carefully

Some molded designs are particularly delicate.

Donna finds that one thin clay piece begins breaking when she tries to spread glue onto its back.

Instead of continuing to handle the fragile clay, she brushes the glue directly onto the plate and places the embellishment into it.

She also replaces the matching piece on the opposite side while the clay is still frozen and firm enough to handle without breaking.

This is a useful trick for especially intricate molds.

Step 10: Fill Small Clay Gaps

Even DAS clay can shrink slightly as it dries.

If small spaces appear where adjoining molded pieces meet, fill them with texture paste.

Apply a little paste directly into the gap and smooth it with a damp brush.

Donna prefers texture paste to making clay slip because the product is ready to use and dries quickly.

Allow all the clay embellishments to dry overnight.

Step 11: Paint the Clay and Plate

Once the clay is completely dry, paint the front of the plate with Dixie Belle Chalk Mineral Paint in Drop Cloth.

Leave the decoupaged Christmas image uncovered.

Drop Cloth is a warm neutral color that works beautifully with vintage designs.

Make sure the paint covers the molded embellishments and surrounding surface.

Because the rice paper has already been sealed, small paint mistakes on the image can be wiped away with a damp cloth.

Allow the paint to dry for approximately 30 minutes.

Step 12: Seal Before Antiquing

Apply a coat of Polyvine Heavy Duty Varnish over the painted surface.

This step prepares the embellishments for antiquing.

A sealed surface allows the antique to wipe away from the high points while remaining in the recessed details.

Let the varnish dry for about one hour.

Step 13: Protect the Back of the Plate

Donna lightly sands the natural wood on the back with fine-grit sandpaper.

After removing the dust, she applies varnish to seal the back.

She wants to preserve the wood's natural appearance while protecting it from accidental paint or antiquing marks.

Unsealed wood can absorb paint and stains quickly, making mistakes difficult to remove.

Antique the Clay Embellishments

Step 14: Prepare the Antiquing Medium

Donna uses FolkArt Antiquing Medium in Wooden Bucket Brown.

Place a small amount in a cup and add a few sprays of water.

She prefers a slightly runny consistency because it is easier to brush into the detailed moldings and wipe away.

Important: This is a water-based antiquing medium. It is suitable for the painted and varnished clay at this stage, but it must not be used over the Fineline Crackle later.

Step 15: Apply the Antique

Brush the thinned antiquing medium over the clay embellishments.

Work in small sections, making sure the color reaches the cracks, crevices, and recessed patterns.

Immediately wipe away the excess with a soft, dry cloth.

Because the surface has been varnished, the antique comes away from the high points while remaining inside the molded details.

This creates darker shadows and emphasizes the dimensional design.

Step 16: Finish All Water-Based Products

Allow the antiquing medium to dry for a couple of hours.

Apply another coat of Polyvine Heavy Duty Varnish to protect the antiquing.

Let the varnish dry for approximately one hour.

At this point, Donna has completed all the water-based finishing steps.

The plate is now ready for Pentart Fineline Crackle.

How to Use Pentart Fineline Crackle

Step 17: Understand the Difference Between Crackle Products

Before beginning, Donna explains an important distinction.

Not all crackle products create the same effect.

A traditional one-step crackle medium is generally used between layers of paint to create a cracked paint appearance.

Pentart Fineline Crackle is different.

It is applied over a finished image or painted surface to create a network of delicate cracks resembling old porcelain.

The image remains visible underneath the crackle.

That makes it especially suitable for vintage-style decoupage projects.

Step 18: Apply Fineline Crackle Component 1

Brush Component 1 over the decoupaged image.

Donna explains that Component 1 appears white when first applied but becomes clear as it dries.

Allow approximately two to three hours for it to turn completely clear.

If you can still see any white or cloudy areas, wait longer before proceeding.

The thickness of the crackle components affects the finished appearance. Thicker applications generally create larger cracks.

Do not leave Component 1 overnight before applying Component 2. Donna warns that waiting too long between the components can prevent the cracks from forming.

Step 19: Apply Fineline Crackle Component 2

Once Component 1 is clear and ready, brush on Component 2.

This component has an amber color.

Apply it in thin, even strokes.

Be especially careful to avoid drips or heavy buildup.

Because the second component has an amber tint, areas that are applied too heavily may remain noticeably darker after drying.

Step 20: Let the Cracks Develop

Allow Component 2 to dry undisturbed.

Donna explains that cracks generally begin appearing within approximately four to five hours, although the process may continue overnight.

The cracks are extremely delicate and can be difficult to see at first.

Don't worry if they are not obvious yet.

The next step will make them stand out.

Highlight the Cracks for an Aged Porcelain Look

Step 21: Use Solvent-Based Antique Paste

Donna uses Pentart Antique Paste in Umber to emphasize the fine cracks.

This product is solvent based.

That distinction is critical.

Once Pentart Fineline Crackle has been applied, Donna cautions against using water-based antiquing products because moisture can damage the crackle finish.

Step 22: Rub the Antique into the Cracks

Apply a small amount of Umber Antique Paste over the crackled image.

Rub the paste across the surface, working it into the fine cracks.

The darker color settles inside the crackle pattern.

Wipe away the excess with a soft, dry cloth.

Do not use a wet wipe or damp cloth.

The delicate crackle now becomes clearly visible, giving the Christmas image the appearance of aged porcelain.

Step 23: Allow the Antique Paste to Dry

Let the solvent-based antiquing paste dry overnight.

The surface needs to be ready for its final protective coating before proceeding.

Step 24: Protect the Crackle with a Solvent-Based Topcoat

Donna uses a solvent-based protective topcoat over the finished crackle.

She specifically avoids using Polyvine at this stage because it is water based.

The topcoat she uses requires approximately 24 hours to dry and seven days to cure completely.

Follow the instructions for the specific solvent-based coating you choose, since drying and curing times may vary by product.

Because the protective coating is solvent based, Donna uses mineral spirits to clean her brush.

Finish with Metallic Gold Wax

Step 25: Add Gold to the Raised Clay Details

Once the protective finish is ready, Donna adds Redesign with Prima Décor Wax in Eternal.

Place a very small amount on your fingertip.

Rub your finger and thumb together to distribute the wax before touching the plate.

This prevents too much gold from being deposited in a single spot.

Lightly skim the wax across the raised surfaces of the clay embellishments.

Keep the gold on the high points rather than pushing it down into the cracks and crevices.

The darker antique should remain visible underneath, creating a contrast between the gold highlights and shaded recesses.

Step 26: Correct Gold Wax Mistakes

If you accidentally apply too much gold wax, Donna recommends using a small amount of mineral spirits on a paper towel to remove it.

Work carefully so you do not disturb the surrounding finish.

Step 27: Add a Gold Rim

Donna completes the plate with a narrow gold border around the outside edge.

Place a small amount of Eternal wax on the flat side of a sponge dauber.

Using steady, even pressure, run the sponge around the rim.

The flat surface of the sponge makes it easier to create a consistent gold line without a paintbrush.

Step 28: Let the Wax Dry and Buff

Allow the wax to dry.

Then use a soft, dry cloth to gently buff the gold highlights.

Donna notes that Eternal wax dries with a beautiful metallic shine, but buffing makes it even brighter.

Because the product is wax, it does not need another protective sealer.

Metallic wax should be the final decorative finish applied to the project.

Important Tips for Using Fineline Crackle

Pentart Fineline Crackle creates a beautiful antique effect, but the order of the products matters.

Remember these key points:

• Finish water-based techniques first. Complete decoupage, painting, water-based antiquing, and varnishing before applying Fineline Crackle.

• Wait until Component 1 turns clear. This generally takes two to three hours, but don't leave it overnight before applying Component 2.

• Apply Component 2 evenly. Heavy areas and drips may remain visible because the product has an amber tint.

• Allow time for the cracks to form. The delicate pattern may require several hours or overnight to develop.

• Use solvent-based antiquing over the crackle. Water-based products can ruin the effect.

• Choose a compatible solvent-based protective topcoat. Donna does not use Polyvine over her completed Fineline Crackle.

• Apply metallic wax last. It highlights the decorative details without requiring another coat of sealer.

The most important lesson is that Fineline Crackle creates its antique effect over the finished image, rather than cracking the underlying paint.

A Vintage Christmas Plate with an Aged Porcelain Finish

This project demonstrates how a simple wooden plate can become an elegant Christmas keepsake with a combination of decoupage, air-dry clay, antiquing, crackle, and metallic wax.

The warm Drop Cloth paint provides a soft vintage background, while the ornate clay embellishments create the appearance of a decorative frame.

FolkArt Antiquing Medium adds depth to the molded details, and Eternal Décor Wax catches the raised areas with a beautiful gold glow.

But the real feature is the delicate Fineline Crackle.

Once the Umber Antique Paste settles into those tiny cracks, the Christmas image takes on the appearance of aged porcelain, giving a newly decorated plate the charm of something treasured for generations.

The finished plate is intended as a decorative display piece rather than a food-serving plate.

A special thank-you to Donna from Mason Creations etc. for sharing this beautiful Christmas project and explaining the important steps for creating and protecting a Fineline Crackle finish.

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