A Better Way to Decoupage Napkins on Flat Surfaces
Would you believe you can decoupage a napkin onto a flat surface without a single wrinkle?
Napkins are beautiful for decoupage, but their thin paper can make wrinkles frustratingly easy to create. The moment a dry napkin hits wet adhesive, it begins absorbing moisture and expanding.
Donna from Mason Creations etc. approaches the problem differently.
With her water method, the napkin is allowed to expand before it ever touches the project. The wrinkles created by that expansion are smoothed out while the napkin is floating against wet plastic. Only then is it transferred to the adhesive-covered surface.
In this Christmas project, Donna uses the technique to turn simple ceramic tiles into smooth, polished holiday coasters with delicate hand-painted gold accents.
Watch the video below to see the complete water method, then follow these steps to try it yourself.
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Materials You Can Shop Here
You can shop the featured finishes and supplies below, then use the tutorial steps to bring the project together.
Also Needed
Ceramic Tile Coasters, Ribbon, Cork Backing
Step 1: Choose the Right Coasters
Donna starts with unglazed ceramic coasters.
Because they do not have a shiny glazed surface, there are no raised or uneven side edges that need to be removed before decorating.
The unglazed ceramic is porous, however, so it needs to be sealed before decoupaging.
Step 2: Prepare the Napkin
Donna uses a Christmas napkin with four separate designs.
Cut the napkin into sections so each printed image can be used on an individual coaster.
Next, separate all the napkin plies.
This napkin has three layers, but only the top printed layer is used for decoupage.
A simple way to separate the plies is to gently scratch one corner with your fingernail until the layers begin to pull apart.
Step 3: Prime the Ceramic Coasters
Apply a generous coat of Polyvine Heavy Duty Varnish to the unglazed ceramic.
Let it dry for about one hour, then apply another generous coat.
Donna uses the same product as:
-
the primer
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the decoupage adhesive
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the protective finish
Priming is especially important on porous ceramic.
If the surface is not sealed first, it can absorb too much varnish when you begin decoupaging. That may leave too little adhesive on the surface for the napkin to attach properly and can contribute to wrinkles.
SPECIAL NOTE If you plan to use a glazed tile, you will need to prime differently because of the shiny surface. You'll need to prime with 1 coat of Polyvine Multi Surface Lacquer and let it dry overnight. Then proceed with decoupaging your napkin. The lacquer helps create a "grippy" layer that improves adhesion, and prevents unwanted results like future chipping of the decorated layers.
Donna's Water Method for Napkin Decoupage
Step 4: Place the Napkin on Plastic
Cut open a clean zip-top bag to create a flat piece of plastic.
Lay the single printed napkin ply onto the plastic face down.
The printed side should be touching the plastic.
Step 5: Saturate the Napkin with Water
Spray the napkin generously with water.
This is not a light mist. Donna uses plenty of water.
Almost immediately, the napkin will expand and large wrinkles will appear.
That's exactly what you want to happen now—before the napkin reaches the coaster.
Step 6: Gently Stretch Out the Large Wrinkles
Carefully touch only the outer perimeter of the wet napkin.
Gently move the edges outward until the large wrinkles and ripples disappear.
Work around all four sides.
Do not pull from the center.
If the napkin does not move easily across the plastic, add more water.
The napkin should slide freely rather than resist your movement. Trying to tug it while it is not wet enough may tear the delicate paper.
Why Does the Water Method Work?
A dry napkin begins expanding the instant it touches wet decoupage adhesive.
When that expansion happens after the paper is already stuck to the surface, the extra paper has nowhere to go. Wrinkles develop almost immediately.
Donna's water method reverses the process.
The napkin is allowed to absorb water and expand before it touches the adhesive.
You smooth away the large wrinkles while it is still on the plastic.
Once transferred to the coaster, the napkin is already expanded and can lie much more smoothly.
As it dries, it contracts again, helping pull out the remaining tiny wrinkles.
Step 7: Apply the Decoupage Adhesive
Brush a generous layer of Polyvine Heavy Duty Varnish onto the primed coaster.
Make sure the surface has enough product to receive the napkin.
Step 8: Transfer the Napkin
Lift the plastic with the wet napkin still attached.
Turn it over so the unprinted side of the napkin faces the coaster and the printed side faces upward.
The water holds the napkin securely against the plastic while you move it.
Lower the plastic and napkin onto the coaster.
Because the plastic is transparent, you can see exactly where the image is positioned.
Step 9: Smooth Through the Plastic
Leave the plastic in place.
Rub across it gently, starting in the center and moving outward in every direction.
This presses the napkin firmly into the varnish and pushes out any trapped bubbles.
If you notice a wrinkle or bubble as you begin lifting the plastic, lay the plastic back down and smooth that area again.
Then continue lifting carefully.
Step 10: Let the Napkin Dry
Donna sets the coaster on top of a paint jar while it dries.
This keeps the excess napkin hanging over the sides from touching the work surface.
Let it dry for a couple of hours.
Finishing the Napkin Edges
Step 11: Sand Away the Excess Napkin
Once the napkin is dry, remove the excess hanging over the coaster.
Use medium-grit sandpaper along the edges.
The sandpaper cuts the paper cleanly and leaves a neat edge.
Remove any napkin that has accidentally adhered to the vertical sides as well, because those areas will be painted later.
Step 12: Choose the Right Napkin Size
Donna uses a cocktail-size napkin for these coasters.
It creates just a little overhang, which is ideal.
If you use a larger luncheon napkin, trim away some of the excess before beginning.
Too much paper hanging over the edges can make the project unnecessarily difficult to handle.
Step 13: Seal the Napkin
Brush another coat of Polyvine Heavy Duty Varnish over the coaster.
Let it dry for about one hour.
This seals and protects the napkin before the decorative painting begins.
Add Hand-Painted Gold Details
Step 14: Highlight the Poinsettias
Use Pentart Delicate Gold Paint and a small dotting tool to add gold dots to the center of the large poinsettia.
Donna repeats a few dots in other areas of the design as well.
These small details add a subtle hand-painted touch without covering the printed artwork.
Step 15: Enhance Fine Gold Wisps
The napkin design includes small gold wisps.
Use a fine nail-art brush to trace over some of these details and make them more noticeable.
The long, thin bristles of a nail-art brush make it particularly useful for delicate curved lines.
Let the gold paint dry for about 30 minutes.
Step 16: Paint the Coaster Edges Gold
Use the same Pentart Delicate Gold Paint around the side edge of each coaster.
Donna uses a sponge dauber because its flat edge makes it easy to run evenly around the ceramic.
Keep your pressure consistent.
A small amount of pressure can also create a thin line of gold along the upper edge.
Because the top of the coaster has already been sealed, small mistakes can be wiped away before they dry.
Step 17: Protect the Gold Details
Once the gold paint is dry, apply another coat of varnish.
Let it dry for about one hour.
Build a Smooth, Polished Finish
Step 18: Lightly Sand Between Varnish Coats
For a smoother and deeper finish, Donna lightly sands the dry varnish with fine-grit sandpaper.
Wipe away all sanding dust.
Then apply another coat of Polyvine Heavy Duty Varnish.
You can repeat this process as many times as desired.
Each additional properly applied coat builds a smoother, more polished surface.
Allow a full hour of drying time between coats.
Step 19: Use a Varnish Brush
Donna uses a brush made specifically for Polyvine varnishes.
Apply the varnish in one direction, then the other.
If small bubbles appear, lightly pass the brush over that area until they disappear.
The goal is a smooth finish with minimal visible brush marks.
Step 20: Finish the Back
The coasters come with cork backing pieces that are slightly smaller than the ceramic tiles.
Donna paints a narrow gold area on the back of each coaster so no white ceramic is visible around the cork once it is attached.
Step 21: Attach the Cork Backing
Line the cork up carefully before removing the adhesive backing.
The adhesive is strong, so positioning it correctly the first time is important.
Press the cork firmly onto the bottom of the coaster.
Why the Products Matter
Donna points out that the water method is an important part of achieving the smooth surface, but the decoupage product also affects the results.
Her tutorial specifically uses Polyvine Heavy Duty Varnish as the primer, adhesive, and sealer.
Different decoupage products behave differently, so substituting another product may produce different results.
An Easy Technique for Smooth Napkin Decoupage
The water method is particularly useful for flat surfaces because it solves one of the biggest challenges of napkin decoupage: the sudden expansion that happens when thin paper meets moisture.
By allowing the napkin to expand first, gently smoothing it on wet plastic, and then transferring it to the prepared surface, you have much greater control over the finished appearance.
And the method is not limited to Christmas coasters.
Once you've learned the technique, try it on other flat craft surfaces where you want an exceptionally smooth napkin finish.
The hand-painted gold details, polished varnish, and cork backing turn these simple ceramic tiles into pretty Christmas coasters that would also make a lovely handmade gift.
A special thank-you to Donna from Mason Creations etc. for sharing another practical technique that makes napkin decoupage easier.
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